Fischer’s Lovebird (Agapornis fischeri)

Currently not breeding

This species is native to Africa. It measures around 15 cm in length, with a wingspan of approximately 9.5 cm. The wild-type Fischer’s Lovebird has a predominantly green plumage. Unfortunately, many breeders keep them in colonies together with Agapornis personatus, which results in numerous hybrids. These hybrids often show visible differences in their markings, yet are sometimes sold as pure Fischer’s Lovebirds. Their diet mainly consists of seeds, but they also enjoy fresh vegetables, leafy greens, and various grasses. Occasionally, you can offer them boiled egg as a protein supplement. A cuttlebone should always be available for calcium intake, and thin branches or twigs are ideal for beak conditioning. Even with a varied diet, I regularly provide vitamin supplements in short courses to maintain optimal health. Fischer’s Lovebirds should always be kept in pairs, as they form very strong bonds with their partners—hence the English name “Lovebird.”

Lovebirds are well-suited as indoor companion birds since their voices are relatively soft and chirpy, without the harsh screeching typical of larger parrot species. Of course, they still need regular opportunities to fly, but—like most parrots—they thrive best in a spacious, nature-inspired outdoor aviary. Whenever possible, place a variety of natural branches and twigs inside their enclosure, ranging from 1–2 cm up to 4–5 cm in diameter. This not only helps to keep their claws naturally worn down but also provides healthy foot exercise by offering different gripping surfaces. Make sure not to overcrowd their space—allow enough room for flying and for pairs to move freely without disturbing each other. When designing their environment, it’s also important to consider bathing options, as lovebirds particularly enjoy bathing. They will often bathe even in the cooler autumn months, keeping their plumage clean and healthy. You can read more about creating the ideal living space for your birds in the Care and Feeding section.

Fischer’s Lovebird – Care and Breeding

Lovebirds can be bred either in pairs or in colonies, but care must be taken, as some individuals may become aggressive or disturb others during the breeding season. The aviary should not be overcrowded, and nest boxes should be placed at a reasonable distance from one another. Make sure to provide plenty of nesting material. During nesting, the female carries materials into the box using her beak, constructing an arched or dome-shaped nest. A clutch usually consists of 3–6 eggs, which hatch after approximately 23 days of incubation. The recommended leg ring size for chicks is 4.5 mm (inner diameter), and the rings should be placed when the chicks are around 10–12 days old.

The female usually builds the nest within a week, provided she feels the proper breeding stimulus and has access to plenty of suitable nesting materials. It’s clearly visible how she constructs the nest box interior using willow bark, leaves, and finely shredded twigs. Inside, she shapes the actual nest, lining the bottom with tiny pieces of chewed-up plant material to create a soft and comfortable surface for the eggs and, later, for the chicks. Generally, only the females gather and carry nesting materials, but I’ve observed several males doing the same—although typically with much less enthusiasm and consistency.

After fledging, the young lovebirds are still fed by their parents for several weeks until they become fully independent. During the day, the juveniles fly actively but usually stay close to the nest box. If they sense danger, they instinctively seek the safety of the nest. In the evenings, the young rest together with their parents. In colony settings, it can sometimes happen that a fledgling accidentally flies into the wrong nest box and is chased out by the resident pair. In the best case, this results only in loud chirping, but in worse situations, the intruding chick may get pecked, plucked, or even injured on the legs or toes.

The Importance of Regular Nest Checks

During breeding you should not disturb the birds more than necessary. When they lay the first egg, I write down the date and I only check the nest around the expected hatching time, not before. With more problematic pairs I sometimes candle the eggs to see how successful the mating was. After hatching and until ringing I only look into the nest once or twice, because in a larger clutch some chicks may still be hatching at this time, and a startled parent could step on them. We put on the rings when the chicks are 10–12 days old. After that, depending on their development, I ring every second day and check the other chicks as well (the ring has not fallen off, they are developed enough, etc.). When even the smallest chick is nicely feathering out, the parents almost only come into the nest box to feed and to sleep at night. At this stage I take a quick look into the nest box every day during feeding times.

In the first photos you can see an injury on a young Fischer’s Lovebird. This species is known for building its nest from willow twigs. They carry very thin, shredded pieces of branch to the bottom of the nest, and one of these thin strands wrapped around the bird’s leg. Luckily it did not cut the skin and the muscles were not damaged. By the next day the swelling had already gone down. A week later, at the next nest check, the leg was completely healed and the bird was using it perfectly. If an injury like this is not noticed in time on a young bird, the foreign material can grow into the tissue within a few days, which can stop the blood circulation in the leg and may even lead to losing the limb. (12 days passed between the two photos.)

15th Czech Agapornis Club Exhibition

In October 2020 the Czech Agapornis Club Exhibition was held for the 15th time in Brno. In the M category I achieved 3rd place with a DF violet SF euwing opaline bird.

Unfortunately the photo does not show the real beauty of the bird’s colours – it is much more impressive in real life. The event was not held in the usual way this time. Because of border closures and general uncertainty it was unclear for a long time whether the show would take place at all. Finally, it was only decided in the week before the exhibition that it would be held. I would like to thank my friend Gábor Bartalos for his help in transporting the birds – without him I would not have been able to take part. Thanks also go to the members of the Czech club, who worked hard to make sure the exhibition could finally happen.